Brown, Marie Alohalani - Nalu: History, Legends, and Wisdom from 1,000 Years of Hawaiian Surfing

A visually stunning and culturally rich exploration of surfing, the oldest sport in North America and an integral part of Hawaiian society that dates back more than 1,000 years. A SURFING BOOK THROUGH AN INDIGENOUS LENS: While many books have captured the joy of surfing, there has not been a book for readers to understand surfing through the eyes and minds of the people who gave birth to the sport. Learning the mother-culture of a sport like surfing is an integral part of better understanding the practice.With Alohalani’s deep knowledge of the sport and land and her connections to locals in the community, including plenty of pro surfers, this book is poised to become the new standard bearer in the category of surfing books. NEVER-BEFORE-SEEN MATERIAL: Hawaii has a rich tradition of oral storytelling, but to know the stories you had to hear them first-hand. Hawaiian newspapers of the late nineteenth century were filled with news, stories, and advice on surfing. But almost none of it has ever been translated into English.Alohalani is including translations of myths and stories found in these historical texts, many of which are being made available in English for the first time. Modern surfing culture has existed for only about 100 years. Even the word "surfing" was a Western invention created in the 1800s by early visitors to Hawaiʻi, who had no idea how to describe the sight of Hawaiians riding waves. Little did those Westerners know that Hawaiians already had a name for it:heʻe nalu, or wave-sliding. For ancient Hawaiians, this indigenous pastime was more than just a sport or recreation; it was a vital aspect of their society. Heʻe nalu had its own rituals, holidays, shrines, and mythology. When the waves were right, entire villages would abandon their duties to play in the ocean. Men, women, and children would all dive in—riding, competing, flirting, and socializing in the water. Kings and queens claimed the best waves for themselves. Handcrafted boards would be blessed by in a sacred ceremony. Containing a mix of gorgeous modern and archival surfing photography, surfing proverbs, ceremonies, and legends of ancient Hawaiʻi, and stories and advice from modern water-sport icons, Nalu provides a comprehensive look at surfing's mother culture and the people who have perfected it. Co-authored by Dr. Marie Alohalani Brown, a distinguished scholar of Hawaiian language and lifelong practitioner of Hawaiian water culture,and Ian Lendler, an award-winning author and dedicated surfer, Nalu draws from historical texts, many of which Alohalani has translated into English for the first time. A vibrant celebration of a time-honored tradition, Nalu is an essential read for those seeking a deeper understanding of surfing, and anyone who feels a connection to the ocean.